So it has been a incredibly busy last week. We have been working at new seeds that have arrived, sending out orders for seeds, planting new and transplanting old, etc. all along with managing our personal lives. It’s been a bit overwhelming honestly, but we are still as committed to the work being done. Updating daily has proven to be a challenge, but we intend to aim for this as our minimum once we have more of a system in place.
We had posted last that we would update on the Cashew seeds, How to grow Papaya and the Lemon Verbena plant. This information will be updated, but we haven’t been able to properly produce photos and additional information. Over the next week it will be written about and as well we have marked next Monday as the start of our multi-part series on How to grow food from the grocery store.
We are sure many of you might have come across a Pineapple being grown in a bucket at some time or another. This is a common planting exercise that a lot of people do with kids, but it’s great for a person of any age. The fact that you can twist the top off a pineapple and it will produce roots and eventually a new Pineapple is incredibly fascinating to us. Pineapple can be grown from seed as well and we are currently testing this, we should have results within the next 2 weeks. It can take from a month or longer for seeds to germinate. Seeds found in store bought Pineapples are usually incomplete or damaged. We are unsure, but suspect this is due to farming practices. The farmers do not want them pollinated, so this is why you won’t find seeds in many Pineapple at all. Once we have more results from our seeds (if any) we will write a ‘How to grow pineapple from seed’ article.
To grow your new Pineapple plant, you will want to twist the top of the Pineapple off. Peel back one by one some of the very lowest leaves to expose some of the core/heart of the Pineapple top. You likely will find some shriveled dry roots. Once you’ve peeled back about half an inch – one inch you will want to let your Pineapple air dry for about two days. This will help the Pineapple top heal so that it doesn’t rot as much when you root it in water or soil. Once your Pineapple is dry you can either plant it directly in soil (see below) or suspend the lower 2 inches in a cup of water.
TIP: If you choose to suspend it in water, check it every few days and change it out if it becomes contaminated or smells. We made the mistake of leaving ours in water without drying it and -wow- the smell and rot was awful. This caused the Pineapple to likely take 2-3 times as long to root properly and also added a lot more bottom leaf rot then necessary. Amazingly, it still rooted very well, you can see it below after being trimmed and cleaned up.
We hate to inform that this was a bit of an unattended experiment, as we didn’t track any growth or timeline. We had previously read it can take anywhere for 6-8 weeks for good roots to establish. We believe ours wasn’t rooted for that long in water, but we can’t verify. Later as we compile reference articles, we will re-examine the process with some new Pineapple tops.
Plant your new Pineapple plant in a well draining sandy soil. You want it to keep moist, but not wet (this will cause rot.) We have been watering ours once a day till water drains from the bottom and it seems to be working well. The soil we used was a blend of mostly sand and forest mix with some added coconut coir, castings, mycorrhizae and we used some rooting hormone on the base.
Updates will be made once we see substantial growth!
Ten days ago we had posted Lemon Verbena, Tomato Cuttings, Guava, & Shangri-La project!. Here we wrote about an experiment including Tomato cuttings. At the time of that post, it had been about a week and we saw no results. After examining them over the last week and half we feel we’ve learned a lot. Below are the results:
2 wrapped in paper towel – nothing yet, leaves still look healthy.
2 in regular potting soil – No roots showing through plastic cup, but leaves are healthy. Clipped leaves provided smaller foliage which definitely stressed the Tomato cutting less.
2 in coconut/casting mix – No roots showing through plastic cup, but leaves are healthy. Same clipped leave scenario.
1 in tap water, 1 in distilled + kelp, 1 in distilled + myco, 1 in plain distilled.
The Tomato cutting in kelp water turned to mush within the first week (likely due to a high ratio of kelp added.)
The Tomato cutting in plain distilled water and the Tomato cutting in myco water both have stayed fairly healthy, but show no roots. we changed the water out after finding the next results.
Initially the tap water one wilted and looked like it might die for the first 2 days. Surprisingly the tap water Tomato cutting is the only one so far with visible roots. We believe this may be due to the fact that tap water has some trace minerals in it. Initially We’re sure the tap water with its chlorine content might have been what was responsible for the wilting. We would recommend to let it sit in an open container for a day to let the Chlorine evaporate off.
12 Tomato leaf cuttings in soil and humidity dome – No growth visible yet, but these all look very healthy.
We will continue to monitor the Tomato cuttings and list the progress. Once we have concluded this experiment we will start a second trial to compare the results against a new batch of ‘subjects.’
We have had good (too much in fact) success with the Goji, Dragonfruit & Papaya seedlings. Some other posts to look forward to will be on Catnip and Cat Grass we have been growing, as well as some herbs and mixed greens.
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